We were quite happy to leave Addis Ababa behind as we jumped on an early morning flight to Bahir Dar. First up was a boat ride on Lake Tana to visit the Ura Kidane Mihret Monastery, one of many on the shores and islands of the lake. Fantastic, colourful, religious paintings throughout the inner sanctum. On the boat back stopped to view some hippos at the source of the Blue Nile River, the outflow of Lake Tana. After a quick bite to eat, headed down a very rough, dusty, potted road to see the Blue Nile Falls. Pretty amazing even with the severely reduced waters due to a hydroelectric dam and the dry season.
Drove to Gondar the following morning. Lots of small, dusty villages and a couple of larger towns. Afternoon tour of the city. Visited the 17th and 18th century castles and fortifications of the Gondar Royal Enclosure. Some very impressive palaces of the Kings and Queens of the Solomonic dynasty. Next stop with our guide was the 18th c. church Debre Berhan Selassie. Beautiful painted interior with amazing winged cherubs covering the ceiling. Final stop was Fasiladas’ bath, site of Gondar’s Timkat celebrations. Stone bath compound was lovely, peaceful and all decked out for Timkat which starting that Sunday evening. Ficus trees entwine the walls lending it an exotic aura. Traditional Ethiopian dinner at the famous Four Sisters Restaurant.
Spent a day exploring the Simien National Park just outside of Debark. High altitude hiking with outstanding views. Encountered a large troop of gelada monkeys. They did not even seem to care about our presence. Also did a short walk to a viewpoint of Jinbar waterfalls. We were a bit winded walking at 3200 m but at least no altitude sickness.
Breathtaking drive on the Limalimo road. Took over 5 hours to get to Aksum. Arrived in time to catch the beginning of Timkat, the Ethiopian celebration of Epiphany. In every town, city and village in the country, jubilant processions of singers, dancers, musicians, and clergy move a replica of the Ark of the Covenant from each of their churches to a nearby water source in anticipation of the next day’s blessing of the waters. Everyone in town follows, all dressed in their finest white clothes. At Aksum, the water is the Queen of Sheba Bath. Aksum also claims to have the actual original Ark under lock and key in a chapel within their St. Mary of Zion church complex. Was quite the spectacle to watch and a bit of a thrill to see the Ark. Eat your heart out Indiana Jones!
On Sunday, we were up early to head to the Queen of Sheba Bath for the Timkat main event. Solemn clergy made many speeches. Happy people all around the pool/bath clapping and cheering, singing and chanting. Culmination was the blessing of the Bath water after which many people leapt into the pool to swim and be purified. Big hoses sprayed the crowd and plastic water bottles filled with pool water were squirted everywhere. After much celebration, the procession reassembled to return the Ark of the Covenant to the Church.
After Timkat, we spent the afternoon visiting Aksum’s various sights. First was the Northern Stele Field and museum. Huge stele carved from granite in the 3rd and 4th century. One of them was even carted off to Rome by Mussolini. It was finally returned and re-erected in 2007. Interesting museum on site as well as a mausoleum and several tombs. Next stop was the partially excavated 6th c. tombs of King Kaleb and his son King Gebre Meskel then a look at the “Rosetta Stone of Ethiopia” dating back to 340 AD. Toured the St Mary of Zion Church Complex and its museum. Ross got to see the Old Church (no women allowed!!!!!) and the Throne Stone while I sat on a bench 
. No one is allowed to go into the Chapel of the Ark of Covenant, except one chosen guardian and he is not allowed to leave…ever! Viewed it from behind a fence. Final stop of the day was the 6th c. Queen of Sheba’s Palace just outside of town at Dungur. Debatable as to whether these ruins are really her palace, but it may lie somewhere below or nearby.
Headed out of Aksum for Wukro. Viewed the battlefield of Adwa, where the Ethiopians defeated the Italians in 1895. Stopped at the ruins of Yeha to view the 3000 year old Great Temple considered the birthplace of Ethiopian civilization. The priest of the adjacent Church of Abuna Aftse let us into the church museum to see an interesting display of illuminated books and some incised Sabean stone inscriptions from the Great Temple. Nearby sits the 8th c BC Grat Be’al Gebri. Once a monumental palace, it now sits in ruins, its huge monolithic pillars toppled.
Last stop of the day was near Sinkata at the monastery of Arbuta Insesa at Adi Chewa. A short hike up the side of a cliff to get to the entry door. Had to wait about an hour before the priest showed up to let us in. Beautiful (though filthy) interior with a 5m high domed ceiling and red & yellow stencil-like figures on the thick columns and archways. Drove on to Wukro to stay at the Wukro Lodge. Definitely had seen better days but the location high on a hill overlooking the valley was superb.
The following day was a big day for Tigray rock hewn churches. First stop, the 10th c Abraha We Atsbeha church. Cruciform pillars and 17 & 18 c. murals. Rather ugly portico was added by the Italians. Next, Medhane Alem Kesho. Steep climb up the rock face to see Tigray’s oldest, tallest and finest rock hewn church. Last stop was the Wukro Cherkos. A semi-monolithic sandstone church with amazing pillars, Aksumite frieze and barrel vaulted ceiling. Sadly, much water damage. After a very late lunch drove about an hour to Mekele Had a delicious pizza & beer dinner in the outdoor garden at the Karibu Kitchen.
Super long drive, 10 hours, from Mekele to Lalibela. We chose to drive (or rather, be driven!) but a flight might have been a better choice since there wasn’t much to see en route. Road conditions were poor. Quite a bit of rain and pea soup fog going up to the Delanta plateau at 3500m. Rough, winding roads all the way but especially the last 50km to Lalibela. Pulled in shortly after sunset to the Old Abyssinia Lodge in Lalibela.
By the morning, the weather had cleared. Gorgeous views from our hotel across the valley. Stayed in traditional Ethiopian ‘tukul’.
Started our day with a tour of the Northwestern Group of the Lalibela rock hewn churches or ‘bets’. They date from the reign of King Lalibela (1181 to 1221). Visited Bet Medhane Alem, Maryam, Mikael, Golgotha, Meskel, Danaghel, and the Tomb of Adam. Last stop was the famous Bet Giyorgis, the most visually perfect church – 15m high (or deep?) with a three tiered plinth in the shape of a Greek cross.
Afternoon hike up to the Asheton Maryam monastic church at 3150m. Stunning views from the top. Priest showed us the church treasures.
On our last day in Lalibela we visited the southeastern block of rock hewn churches including Bet Gabriel-Rufael, Bet Merkorios, Bet Amauel and Bet Abba Libanos. Wandered through the local market full of livestock, grains, honey, textiles and housewares. Got invited to our guide’s house for a home cooked Ethiopian meal of shiro, enjera, veggie pizza and lamb quiche. Very tasty, much better than any restaurant. Ended the evening at a local honey wine & traditional entertainment place called Torpedo.
As we came to our last stop in Ethiopia, we wasted most of our day flying from Lalibela to Dire Dawa due to a 4-hour flight delay. Then took almost 2 hours to drive to Harar, due to rain, fog & big, slow trucks. Met our guide at our traditional home-stay then out for a quick supper. After dinner, headed for the dump outside of the eastern old city gate to feed the wild hyenas. They have been gathering here every evening for decades to be fed by the “Hyena Man”. Tourists are invited to participate. Was quite a thrill!
We had the morning to see the sights of Harar. First up was a detailed explanation about Adare houses, the traditional type of Harar home and where we had just overnighted. Wandered through the maze of streets in the old walled city with our guide Biniyam. Typical African marketplace….spices, grains, veggies, animals alive and dead. Stopped at the house of the famous French poet Arthur Rimbaud. Lunch on the Ras Hotel outdoor terrace before heading back to Dire Dawa to catch our late afternoon flight to Djibouti.
So many amazing sights in Ethiopia!