As the residents of Marseille kept reminding us, Marseilles is NOT Paris! Marseille is the oldest city in France, with a history going back 2600 years, and they are extremely proud of their history and heritage. With good reason we’d say.
Late morning train back to Marseille. We were a bit nervous about what to expect, because there had been rioting in the streets the night before. Arrived to find many shops boarded up and most restaurants and markets closed. Found out we were staying right in the heart of the unrest…Canebiere Street. Managed to find a Tunisian restaurant that was open and a North African Market. Stocked up on dinner and breakfast then squirreled away in our apartment in case of more rioting.
Turns out rioting ended Saturday, so Monday morning was a go for our excellent walking tour of Le Panier. Very engaging tour of this oldest quarter of the city. In the afternoon went to their showcase museum MUCEM. Very disappointing. Exhibits were almost exclusively in French ( which apparently turns out to be the case for most French museums).
Wandered back along the old Port stopping for coffee then out for dinner on a square near our apartment.
Next morning, was another walking tour. This time with an organization called Marseille Greeters. Local citizens volunteer to show visitors around their city. Hélène took us up to the famous 19th century basilica high above the city – Notre-Dame de la Garde, which locals call la Bonne Mère. Fabulous views of the harbour, city, and sea. Walked down to visit the Abbey of Saint-Victor. Stopped to buy some “navettes” at a very old bakery (founded in 1781). Navettes are very hard, orange flavoured biscuits in the shape of a narrow boat. They are an acquired taste! Visited the dark, damp, abbey crypts that happened to be hosting an intriguing photographic exhibition. Time for lunch, Hélène steered us to a locals-only pizza restaurant tucked away in the Old Port area, and then we visited a hardware store/museum, Maison Empereur, founded in 1827 and the oldest hardware store in France.
Said au revoir to our greeter at the Vieille Charité in Le Panier. Interesting History and Egyptian museums inside. Late afternoon coffee and then leftover pizza for supper.
Next day was a day trip by bus to Cassis, a cute fishing village that is now overrun with tourists. Checked out the morning market, took a boat trip to see the nearby calanques (dramatic fjord-like indents in the coast), then took a walking tour of the old town before heading back to Marseille for dinner.
You can view some selected pix of Marseille (and neighbouring Cassis) at: www.flickr.com/photos/100countries/albums/72177720309612067
